A new book, by George
Sydney Morning Herald
Tuesday October 20, 2009
The chef, restaurateur and TV celebrity celebrates simple taverna food, writes Jacqui Taffel. The rise of George Calombaris has been swift and spectacular. After learning to appreciate food from his Greek mother and grandmother, he began his chef's training and won National Apprentice of the Year Award in 1999.In 2006, at the age of 27, he opened The Press Club in Melbourne, his ambitious modern Greek restaurant, which won best new restaurant at the 2008 Age Good Food Guide awards. At the end of that year, he opened a second restaurant, Hellenic Republic, which serves simpler, Greek taverna-style food.This year, he has shot to national fame in his role as judge on MasterChef and has published his second book.His first contained recipes from The Press Club, while the second, Greek Cookery from the Hellenic Heart, has simpler, home-style recipes from his more casual restaurant. It reflects Calombaris's great attachment to his family, with a chapter dedicated to his mother's traditional Cypriot recipes.The following recipes come from the piata, or plates, chapter. These small dishes are designed to cover the table and be enjoyed with friends.Greek Cookery from the Hellenic Heart, New Holland, $50.Eggplant dip with red-wine onions3 whole eggplants50ml red wine vinegar2 tsp tahini2 tsp roasted garlic pureeSalt, to taste150ml extra virgin olive oil300ml red wine1 tbsp sugar1 red onion, slicedUsing a fork, prick eggplant and place on a hot grill until tender. Once cool enough to handle, halve lengthways and scoop out flesh. Hang flesh in a sieve overnight to remove excess liquid. Place flesh in a food processor and blend to create a smooth puree. Add red wine vinegar, tahini, garlic and season with salt while constantly blitzing. As you drizzle in olive oil, the mixture will begin to whiten.Reduce red wine and sugar in a pan to a syrup consistency. Add red onion, stir and cover with lid and steam for five minutes to soften onions. Remove lid and stir until liquid is almost evaporated. Season with salt.Place the melitzanosalata into small bowls and serve with red onion on top.Fig and olive relish300g dried figs150g pitted kalamata olives100g red wine vinegar100g brown sugarSoak figs overnight in one litre of water. Drain water and save 100 millilitres of the liquid.Add all ingredients to a pot and simmer gently for 20 minutes.Remove from heat, cool for five minutes then pulse in blender until smooth texture is achieved.Chill and serve with cheese.Cumin-roasted beetroot and yoghurt600g beetroot1 tbsp chopped thyme head garlic, skin on,roughly chopped40ml vegetable oil2 tsp cumin seeds, toastedand crushed40ml extra virgin olive oil20ml sherry vinegar1 tbsp yoghurt1 tbsp coriander, shreddedSalt, to tastePreheat oven. Place whole beetroots in a roasting tray and scatter with thyme and garlic.Drizzle with oil, cover with foil and bake at 180C for one hour or until a skewer passes though easily.Once cool, using gloves, peel beetroots and cut into rough cubes. Combine cumin seeds, olive oil and sherry vinegar and pour over cut beetroots.Mix yoghurt and coriander through beetroot, season with salt and serve.Serves 4
© 2009 Sydney Morning Herald
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